moin moin .... hab mal nen bissl mit GS rumprobiert und bin mal in etwas monströsere Maßstäbe abgeglitten 
Also in richtig monströse ...
Die Idee war, ein Rhinox, oder besser einen Wollofanten für einen dicken Ogertyrannen zu kneten und das Ganze in der Art eines Tagebuchs zu dokumentieren. Zwar mache ich während dem Kneten nur sehr selten Bilder, aber nach jedem Schritt, wenn der GS dann härtet wird zumindest ein Bild gemacht.
Die Texte sind in Englisch verfasst was imho kein Problem darstellen sollte
... i wanted to make something different, not to go mad about him The artworks of rhinox-riding ogres in the armybook was very inspiring for me. I guess it was inspiring for some ogre-players too The rinox of the gnoblar warmachine looks incredible, but i thought it is just too small to be the mount of an ogre-hero. It looks quite good for a normal plastic ogre or an irongut, but for a tyrant it is something like a small pet.
That´s why i decided to sculpt a bigger version of the rhinox. Staying as close to the original concept as possible. I also wanted to change the posture a lil´bit. I wanted a rhinox raising like a horse, must be devestating, when its legs come down to earth again :D
Since some have asked for tutorials or tips i´ll try to make this like a diary. It´s hard to describe sculpting and my english isn´t the best out there, but i´ll try my best. I´ll do some more detailed shots for stuff like fur and maybe the head (which will be quite difficult i guess)
So the first steps:
i began to twist a 1mm copper-wire the way, that it ended in a Y. That´s the form of the body and the rear legs. I´ve bended the wire on the legs with the proportions i wanted to achive on the rhinox.
After the skeleton was done i used to apply several layers of pattex powerputty on the wire (it´s the white stuff). It is cheap, smells like hell, is a bit toxic i think, but hardens within 10min and can be worked with water and your fingers. After the base proportions of the body were done i started with the legs. Again with a bit of powerputty to get the proportions right.
The third step involves greenstuff. I mixed 2 parts of greenstuff with one part of super sculpey (Fimo soft will do too) - this mixture extends the hardening time of Greenstuff (GS), makes it softer (needs some practice to get used to the softer surface) and a bit stickier. This mix was put on the front and rear leg. First step was to get the proportions well, by making the legs much thicker. The smaller Rhinox gives a good idea how the legs should look like. They are covered with fur which might make it a bit harder, but it should be possible.
After the proportions were done i used to smoothen the surface. I used lots of water and moved the tool with a lil´lil´lil´bit of pressure over the surface. The water is very important, The more the better.
Now i wanted to give the legs some kind of structure. The GS needs about 2-4 hours to hardenin the mix, so it is possible to work out big areas at once. I made the texture by pressing in the tool slightly, rolling it half over the leg and removing it. You can use a needle or a professional tool like those sold by masquerade-miniatures. Both will work, but the one from masquerade will make many things easier.
That´s the first part of the "diary". It might take a while before i can add the second part (have exams the next weeks), but maybe it is a lil help so far.
soooo, here comes a bit more on the rhinox thingy
I still need to do the other two legs but i was just courious how to deal with the head. In this size it would be impossible for me to do the head in just one step. Just too much structure, too much detail and both sides need to look equal. Esspecially the last thing is a horrible problem.
Since i can´t do the head in one step í have to go for 2 or 3 steps.
The first thing i did was to do the base proportions of the mouth and neck with power putty.
I applied a layer of greenstuff-super sculpey-mix on the base structure. i decided to start with the mouth of this beast. Doing the minor structure and first detailing. I made some WIP-pictures which show the order i worked on the mouth.
1+2: i started with pressing in the hole of the rhinox´ nose. Also pressing in some bigger folds and working out the lips. After i had the base-proportions done i startde to add more detail, more folds and the holes for the tusks. Those holes aren´t big enough yet, but i needed them to get an idea, where they would be situated later. It also helps with the proportions.
3+4: the most difficult thing was to get the structure done on the other side, too. It does not look 100% the same, but it´s quite near to it. I added a bit more of Greenstuff-mix to form a lil bit of the area under the rhinox eyes. Not too much, just to see how i should proceed .
next step on the head will be the area around the eyes and the smaller horns. Teeth with rest of the mouth-detailing, tusks and details will come with the further steps.
And another step on the head. I wanted to continue with the rest of the base-structure, but as usual my way for doing things is chaotic. Somehow i was faszinated by the tusks and how it would look withthem being done at this point ....
1: To get the tusks done i drilled two holes into the head and clued in parts of the 1mm wire. I used the normal Greenstuffmix to form the tusks. With such bigger and straight things to sculpt you can use your fingers. Keep them wet and move them fast with slight pressure over the surface. This way there won´t be fingerprints left. For the case of appearing fingerprints, they can be removed with the sculpting tool in the next step. When the tusks were done with a smooth surface i used a needletool (will show pics of my tools later) to give them a bit of texture.
Once the tusks were done and hard i started with the rest of the head. Since i was sure that it would be a problem for me to get both eyes on the correct place, which is quite dificult with such a big head i went for a lil´ trick. I drilled a hole trhough the head. The holes were situated on the correct places for the eyes. Now i took a needle, cutted away the spike-whatever-thing, letting only a bit of steel left. Now i clued in the needlehead, creating an eyeball on every side with it.
2: time to cover the eyes .... looked like an alien at this point. I covered the area with parts of greenstuff. Trying to get the base proportions done with my fingers. I also couldn´t resist to add the tongue. I flatened all the greenstuff now.
3. Time for all structures .... I also added the teeth. The area around the eye isn´t done completely now and needs some fixing, but overall i´m quite happy, even with the head being a bit too big. But i already wanted to make the body a bit bigger, so it does´t matter.
Next steps on the head will be the other side ( i did only one side so far since i was afraid to destroy something freshly done when sculpting on both sides). When done this, i´ll do the horned skullplate and ad a bit of fur on some areas to get the feeling for the real size of the head ....
und ein letztes Bild vom Dicken, vielleicht kommt heute später am Abend noch ein Bild mit den fertigen Panzerplatten, mit welchen ich derzeit absolut unzufrieden bin :D
Also in richtig monströse ...
Die Idee war, ein Rhinox, oder besser einen Wollofanten für einen dicken Ogertyrannen zu kneten und das Ganze in der Art eines Tagebuchs zu dokumentieren. Zwar mache ich während dem Kneten nur sehr selten Bilder, aber nach jedem Schritt, wenn der GS dann härtet wird zumindest ein Bild gemacht.
Die Texte sind in Englisch verfasst was imho kein Problem darstellen sollte
... i wanted to make something different, not to go mad about him
The artworks of rhinox-riding ogres in the armybook was very inspiring for me. I guess it was inspiring for some ogre-players too The rinox of the gnoblar warmachine looks incredible, but i thought it is just too small to be the mount of an ogre-hero. It looks quite good for a normal plastic ogre or an irongut, but for a tyrant it is something like a small pet.That´s why i decided to sculpt a bigger version of the rhinox. Staying as close to the original concept as possible. I also wanted to change the posture a lil´bit. I wanted a rhinox raising like a horse, must be devestating, when its legs come down to earth again :D
Since some have asked for tutorials or tips i´ll try to make this like a diary. It´s hard to describe sculpting and my english isn´t the best out there, but i´ll try my best. I´ll do some more detailed shots for stuff like fur and maybe the head (which will be quite difficult i guess)
So the first steps:
i began to twist a 1mm copper-wire the way, that it ended in a Y. That´s the form of the body and the rear legs. I´ve bended the wire on the legs with the proportions i wanted to achive on the rhinox.
After the skeleton was done i used to apply several layers of pattex powerputty on the wire (it´s the white stuff). It is cheap, smells like hell, is a bit toxic i think, but hardens within 10min and can be worked with water and your fingers. After the base proportions of the body were done i started with the legs. Again with a bit of powerputty to get the proportions right.
The third step involves greenstuff. I mixed 2 parts of greenstuff with one part of super sculpey (Fimo soft will do too) - this mixture extends the hardening time of Greenstuff (GS), makes it softer (needs some practice to get used to the softer surface) and a bit stickier. This mix was put on the front and rear leg. First step was to get the proportions well, by making the legs much thicker. The smaller Rhinox gives a good idea how the legs should look like. They are covered with fur which might make it a bit harder, but it should be possible.
After the proportions were done i used to smoothen the surface. I used lots of water and moved the tool with a lil´lil´lil´bit of pressure over the surface. The water is very important, The more the better.
Now i wanted to give the legs some kind of structure. The GS needs about 2-4 hours to hardenin the mix, so it is possible to work out big areas at once. I made the texture by pressing in the tool slightly, rolling it half over the leg and removing it. You can use a needle or a professional tool like those sold by masquerade-miniatures. Both will work, but the one from masquerade will make many things easier.
That´s the first part of the "diary". It might take a while before i can add the second part (have exams the next weeks), but maybe it is a lil help so far.
soooo, here comes a bit more on the rhinox thingy
I still need to do the other two legs but i was just courious how to deal with the head. In this size it would be impossible for me to do the head in just one step. Just too much structure, too much detail and both sides need to look equal. Esspecially the last thing is a horrible problem.
Since i can´t do the head in one step í have to go for 2 or 3 steps.
The first thing i did was to do the base proportions of the mouth and neck with power putty.
I applied a layer of greenstuff-super sculpey-mix on the base structure. i decided to start with the mouth of this beast. Doing the minor structure and first detailing. I made some WIP-pictures which show the order i worked on the mouth.
1+2: i started with pressing in the hole of the rhinox´ nose. Also pressing in some bigger folds and working out the lips. After i had the base-proportions done i startde to add more detail, more folds and the holes for the tusks. Those holes aren´t big enough yet, but i needed them to get an idea, where they would be situated later. It also helps with the proportions.
3+4: the most difficult thing was to get the structure done on the other side, too. It does not look 100% the same, but it´s quite near to it. I added a bit more of Greenstuff-mix to form a lil bit of the area under the rhinox eyes. Not too much, just to see how i should proceed .
next step on the head will be the area around the eyes and the smaller horns. Teeth with rest of the mouth-detailing, tusks and details will come with the further steps.
And another step on the head. I wanted to continue with the rest of the base-structure, but as usual my way for doing things is chaotic. Somehow i was faszinated by the tusks and how it would look withthem being done at this point ....
1: To get the tusks done i drilled two holes into the head and clued in parts of the 1mm wire. I used the normal Greenstuffmix to form the tusks. With such bigger and straight things to sculpt you can use your fingers. Keep them wet and move them fast with slight pressure over the surface. This way there won´t be fingerprints left. For the case of appearing fingerprints, they can be removed with the sculpting tool in the next step. When the tusks were done with a smooth surface i used a needletool (will show pics of my tools later) to give them a bit of texture.
Once the tusks were done and hard i started with the rest of the head. Since i was sure that it would be a problem for me to get both eyes on the correct place, which is quite dificult with such a big head i went for a lil´ trick. I drilled a hole trhough the head. The holes were situated on the correct places for the eyes. Now i took a needle, cutted away the spike-whatever-thing, letting only a bit of steel left. Now i clued in the needlehead, creating an eyeball on every side with it.
2: time to cover the eyes .... looked like an alien at this point. I covered the area with parts of greenstuff. Trying to get the base proportions done with my fingers. I also couldn´t resist to add the tongue. I flatened all the greenstuff now.
3. Time for all structures .... I also added the teeth. The area around the eye isn´t done completely now and needs some fixing, but overall i´m quite happy, even with the head being a bit too big. But i already wanted to make the body a bit bigger, so it does´t matter.
Next steps on the head will be the other side ( i did only one side so far since i was afraid to destroy something freshly done when sculpting on both sides). When done this, i´ll do the horned skullplate and ad a bit of fur on some areas to get the feeling for the real size of the head ....
und ein letztes Bild vom Dicken, vielleicht kommt heute später am Abend noch ein Bild mit den fertigen Panzerplatten, mit welchen ich derzeit absolut unzufrieden bin :D
Wenn der Wollofant fertig ist, werd ich das orginal-rhinox mal daneben stellen, zwecks Größenvergleich. Für den Eindruck - das Holzstück in der Seitenansicht ist 5cm breit ... das ganze Tierchen also ca. 9cm lang und mit Hörnern 11,5 cm hoch bei ca. 5,5cm Breite (Vorderbeine)
: Du hast Dich also auch hier hin verlaufen *g* und natürlich mal wieder mit unverschämtheiten! Ne mal wieder richtig nette Sachen!
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